Manihiki Magic - Kwai, the Floating Supermarket

KWAI

 Every few months, Kwai sails to Manihiki. This pirate looking sailing vessel departs from Hawaii and trades all over the South Pacific. Kwai built in 1950 as a herring fishing vessel in Bremen, Germany (70km away from Tim's hometown!!!) with a short ketch rig to keep her steady on the grounds. She is 120’ long on deck, 179 gross tons and carries 250 tons of cargo. In 1963 she was sold to Norway and ended up in the sand and asphalt trade. Island Ventures Ltd purchased her in June 2002. She had had a fire in the engine room and aft accommodations and the main engine was seized. The survey showed the hull to be in excellent condition and she was re-powered with a rebuilt GM 12-71. During the summer of 2002 KWAI was fitted with all necessary navigation electronics and safety gear and, registered as a cargo ship in the Cook Islands (!), sailed for Aveiro, Portugal. About the Ship For more information about the company and shipping schedule, visit Sailing Vessel Kwai.

A few weeks ago we heard for the first time that tropical name "Kwai". It could have been a bird, or maybe a big fish or some sort of cooking equipment. Nope. People here were very excited about its arrival. Asking around, we understood that it was a sailing vessel that trades from the United States across the Pacific. Food, clothing, equipment, anything. American brands, which is a cool change from NZ and Australian imports. The most organized Manihikians had pre-ordered a few months in advance which gave them time to save up until the big day. For people with no particular needs (or the ones who had no idea like us!), there are also extras to be purchased directly, just like at any market in the world. Kwai is arriving on Island Time - we are not sure when. It is scheduled to arrive in Manihiki around 26-27th April. On Monday 24th April, the news arrive that the vessel is already in Rakahanga, 44km North-West of Manihiki. It will sail that day to arrive to Tukao on Tuesday 25th, Anzac Day.

Tuesday comes, and what a day! First it starts with the plane arriving from Rarotonga. As it is a public holiday, all kids are at the airport for the spectacle. From there, everyone make their way to the main wharf, on the other side of the village Tukao. There it is: Kwai. Maybe a bit rusty but what a beauty! On land, tables are already set up, merchandise is sitting on the roofed concrete floor, people are waiting, excited. The crew starts piling up goods. They correspond to the pre-orders. The buyers sit and make sure that their order is being put together properly. They look at their shopping list, taking mental notes of what's missing. We are admiring how the tiny dinghy navigates through the tricky passage, transporting missing goods from Kwai to the wharf. They are boxes of lollies, jandals or Kool-Aid, flour, chilly bins or soap. The most random but necessary things on the island.

Once all orders are piled up and ready to go, the island tractor backs up and lucky new owners pack away their shopping. Others stack up chocolate, bowls and volley balls onto their bike and drive home. They'll soon come back for the rest of their tin fruits, laundry powder and clothes.

An hour and a half later, finally the fun can begin for us! Well, this was already extremely entertaining. What a show! The dinghy comes back full of black boxes with yellow lids. Each box is labelled. Everyone helps to unload onto the "market setup area". Four rows of boxes are placed in a way that people can walk through the "aisles" and pick as they go. 

Kwai boxes unloaded at the wharf

Boxes placed in rows, ready for shopping.

 Ready, steady, GO!!! We had two things on the list: laundry pegs and chocolate powder for breakfast. Not sure we'd be lucky with that. As for the rest, we are opportunists. Get what you see. Boxes of Ziploc bags, underwear, spices and sweats, toiletry items, children's books and toys, plastic cups and plates, tools and safety items, blankets, clothes and few more random stuff. Not sure if the shopping in itself was more fun than watching people shop. It was probably just as good! Who knows exactly when the next boat or ship will come, better get it while you can! 

Lucile & Courtney showing off their findings. Frederick in the foreground smiling at his mum Winnie for a special toy!

Our random shopping ended up being a pack of 22 bars of antibacterial soap (and why would they sell it in smaller packs! ), a double pack of 2lbs strawberry jam (that's a total of 1.814kg), a double pack of 3lbs peanut butter (because we like the American classic sandwich! Challenge to finish those 2.72kg in 3 months - recipes anyone?), a double pack of the classic Best Foods mayonnaise (only 1.06L) and a 920g of Thai sweet Chilli sauce (try mayo & sweet Chilli! We call it The special sauce, delish!). Courtney found her pegs and we were unlucky with the chocolate powder. We saw boxes of Nesquik but unfortunately we would have had to pre-order. We'll be prepared should there be a next time! 

Yann (and parents!) extremely excited about their special treats!!! Kwai patiently waiting at sea.

Now, guess how much for this amazing shopping round... NZD110!!!
Phew, so much action for one day. It's now time to go for a swim and enjoy the sunset... Just the four of us and a beautiful beach to ourselves.  Check out our Instagram - Azure Coconut