Manihiki Magic - THE best coconut crab in the world!

A small part of Tukao's share of Coconut Crabs or Te Kavou

Okay, so we have come to love Manihiki as a very special place. The most amazing people, stunning lagoon, beautiful reef and the sweetest drinking coconuts on this blue planet. But yesterday, well, Manihiki has topped it all and put on the most amazing feast for us. A dinner worthy of kings and queens and we are truly grateful that the Manihiki community has shared this with us. So what has happened?

All of the Cook Islands have Ra'ui - protected areas where nobody is allowed to fish or hunt in. It is a traditional way of protecting the natural beauty and abundance of the seafood in each island's lagoon. But once in a while, once or twice a year in Manihiki these areas are opened for hunting and gathering. An amazing spectacle begins!

I am up, walking the main coral road of Tukao with our youngest at 6am because she is teething and can't sleep. That's when we hear the drums. The traditional wake up call for the village. The hunt is about to commence! Both villages, Tauhunu and Tukao send out their boats to collect coconut crabs - te kavou - and Milkfish - te ava. Both a local delicacy. At night a second party leaves both villages and they are targeting the Frigate birds and local crayfish. It is an event for the whole family where hunting techniques are being passed on from generation to generation. All under the watchful eye of the local marine ministry who is strictly recording the takings and making sure that no juvenile animals are 'harvested '. This is especially important for the coconut crabs and crayfish. Both amazingly tasty and beautiful to eat. To ensure the next hunt will be as successful as the one this year, Manihikians are only targeting male specimen, no juvenile or female recognizable by the eggs they are carrying.

I have been told that Puke kavou is the local term for the coconut crab hunt and this year's outing was very successful:

Clesta prouding showing off one of the many crabs hunted down

The locals have captured 150 coconut crabs. Each village received 75. On top of that they have caught enough milk fish to give 5 to every person on the island. That is right, 5 fish per person! The most amazing thing for us is that this is absolutely normal, noone questions this procedure. Even people who did not join the hunt get their share. So for our household we were granted 20 fish - because of course, Charlie who is 6 months old gets her share! All we have to do is clean them ourselves - scale, clean, cut and freeze. So on we went, joined the fun, jumped into the shallow warm waters of the lagoon and cleaned our fish. What a beautiful way of celebrating community life! 

Jack, Tim and Rua cleaning the milk fish under the supervision of little Liam. Jane and Darling are also cleaning their share while enjoying the warm lagoon while Koteka pulls out the livers, a delicacy best enjoyed on the spot

Tim & Rua proudly showcasing their share: 20 for us, 5 for Courtney and 10 for Rua and Isaac

Once all fish were cleaned, Yann and I made our way down to the community center and gave Papa Tarau, the Deputy Mayor of Manihiki and Catechist, a hand cooking the coconut crabs. All on open fire - Tunupaka, cooking the crabs in the seawater of the Manihiki lagoon.

Te Kavou tunupaka - coconut crab on the open fire

We were told that every crabs would be frozen and saved for the big feasts we are expecting for constitution celebrations coming up next week. Plus, the Prime Minister, the honorable Henry Puna will visit his home island this week to join the festivities. So we where very happy to help. Even though, we have to admit that we are probably more standing in the way than really helping but it is just so rewarding spending time, seeing and experiencing how resourceful the locals are. But to get back on track, once the grabs where cooked... Papa Tarau generously insisted on giving us three crabs for dinner that night!

Before

After - with Papa Tarau

This was a gift we could not refuse. And have a look at the photos. You need two dinner plates to serve this crab. It does not fit on a regular size plate! I hope we have done this beautiful meal justice! It was the best meal ever! Amazing! Mouthwatering! The best! Just the best!!!

Voila!!!

Mone Mone - yummy yummy

The ancestors must have been really clever people for introducing this Ra'ui system, because it guarantees that generations to come will be able to eat like kings and queens in Manihiki!!!

Meitaki Korereka for sharing!

Bon appetit! Wonder who will win this fight...

Taking a break - those beast are huuuuuge!!!

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