Manihiki Magic - We miss you

Some of the 40 islets that form the atoll of Manihiki

 
We have departed the beautiful shores of Manihiki after 4 incredible months on this tiny atoll. We are missing it terribly and are trying to soak in the wonderful times we have had there - it still feels like a dream, a period of our lives that we spent floating on a cloud. There is so many people we would like to thank and so much we would like to share about our experience, but where to start? So here is a list of random facts that describe the uniqueness and beauty of Manihiki. Amazing facts that are truly extraordinary to a French Maman and a German Papa with two traveling kids!

- There are only 234 inhabitants spread on the two village islands of Tukao and Tauhunu.

In the village of Tukao, where we lived:
- There are 31 children from 3 to 16 years old at Apii Tukao, with 3 teachers and 1 teacher aid. 

Apii Tukao students & Mama Winnie (ECE) and Napa Vaine (Principal) - Cultural Day at Apii Ruamanu in Tauhunu

- There are 3 cars in the village of Tukao.

Private vehicle 1/2 - Mama Metua's, the shopkeeper

- There are 2 main shops in Tukao and one ran by the church that sells only bulk supplies of basic food (flour, sugar, rice, mosquito coils, corned beef, etc.)
- There are 3 churches in Tukao for 82 inhabitants - Catholic, Cook Islands Christian Church and Seventh Day Adventist. That makes a ratio of one church for 28 inhabitants! That would mean almost 305,000 churches in New York City! 
- There is one TV station, and that's a story in itself!

Manihiki Television - MTV, the Original

In Manihiki in general, including both villages of Tauhunu and Tukao:
- There are four drinking water stations: 2 in Tukao and 2 in Tauhunu.
- There are houses with no plumbing whatsoever. A sink, with no tab.
- Most of the locals do the dishes and laundry outside with rain water collected in huge barrels and drums as there is hardly any houses with running water.
- There is no hot shower. Only rain water warmed up outside in the day sun.
- Most people shower outside with a hose or with buckets (actually incredible to shower under the Milky Way - forced to try when we ran out of water on a Saturday...). 
- Best ever view from a bedroom.

View from Courtney's bedroom - Upper floor of Trainee Samson's seeding house

 
- There are no keys nor locks to the houses. 
- Keys stay on the bikes - so that anyone can use your bike if necessary!
- There are more boats than inhabitants that are used mainly for fishing and pearl farming but also for visiting family or shopping in the other village. 

5 boats in one photo - This is in front of 3 houses with a regular population of 2 adults and 2 children

.

 
- Some people own a boat but no wheel transport.
- The national dish is fish & rice, and if you are lucky it might be rice & fish. The good thing is that the lagoon is healthy so every fish is edible and delicious. If not, they make great food for the pigs.

Correct me if I am wrong but this would probably qualify as one of the delicacies of Manihiki! :-) Corned Beef and tinned spaghetti. Deluxe with fried onions!

- Kids are very independant. They can organise their own dinner at 10 years old: go fishing in the lagoon and cook the fish tunupaka, on an open fire built on the beach. They can also collect Nimata - drinking coconuts, Uto - spongy marshmallow-like coconut, guava, lime and vene-vene - local super sweet berries. 

Muriel (6) & Tokorima (7) accompanying us for a walk around Tukao. They are in charge of Charlie & Yann!

 
- There is one restaurant in Manihiki, and lucky for us it was in Tukao. Open twice a week every fortnight. Choice of fish & chips, burger or steak & mushroom. Sooo good!!! What a nice change from fish & rice!

Courtney, Lucile & the kids loving their (meat!) burgers and chips with the beautiful company of owner Mehau! Meitaki Korereka for a mone mone kaikai!

- The ocean is a supermarket.

Rino shopping for dinner in his element - the pretty Moana (ocean)

 - There are new fish species in the lagoon with every moon. So different types of fish on the menu all year long.

Just a few fish after a quick spear fishing tour

- The lagoon is 28°C in winter, 31°C in summer.
- There are no dogs on the island.
- The cats have short tails.
- Every household with no exception has pigs. Healthy, tasty and environmentally friendly source of protein that run wild on the runway or chill comfortably in the shade of palm trees, waiting to be fed.

- One way airfare to Manihiki from Rarotonga with Air Rarotonga costs NZD1,595 (4.5 hours). Alternative option is NZD650 one way for a 4-day sail with Taio Shipping...
- A box of 24 beers costs NZD79.
- Power costs 30cts/unit - we were paying $20/month for a family of 4! Well, there was actually only 2 power plugs in the whole house, so it limits to fridge and charging phone or laundry or kettle or washing machine.
- Manihiki produces one of the best black pearls in the world.  

Black Pearls

 

New harvest - Thank you so much Mama Metua for displaying your whole harvest. Just incredible!!!

- Culture is still alive with impressive costume making, drumming and craft.
- Manihikians weave the most beautiful Rito hats, fans and necklaces - using Parau, the oyster shell as centre piece. They also make kikau brooms and medicine coconut oil.

Coconut oil in the making - Old school on the open fire

- Manihikians have the best sense of hospitality! 
- Manihiki offers the best sunsets.

Private Sunset

There is still much much more to be told. We will try to do this beautiful island justice in the next stories to come!

Manihiki, we miss you

Check our Instagram