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| Helina, Giana, Faiteru, Trina, Tarome, Maria and Willie representing Apii Tukao in Tauhunu for Cultural Day |
Culture in Manihiki is alive. The traditional ways remain,
especially when it comes to embracing the island's own history and heritage. We
were absorbed by the energy, creativity and talent of this community that comes
together to celebrate themselves in the most enthusiastic ways. Fireworks of
colours, ears full of contagious melodies and laughter, joyful atmosphere and
mouth-watering delicacies in abundance from this magnificent lagoon.
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| Mama Rua, our host and land lady, Charlie and Isaac, welcoming the people of Rakahanga to Tukao |
During our four months in beautiful Manihiki, we were lucky enough to actively participate
in two cultural events. The first one was Cultural
Day and the second was for the 52th Constitution
of the Cook Islands celebrating their self-governance granted in 1965. Both
events were extraordinary with special guests from Rakahanga and the Prime
Minister of the Cook Islands visiting his home island for the celebration of
the independence of the country. Being both European, when we talk culture, we
think of buildings and churches, paintings and sculptures, books, texts and
music, museums and their ancient faded artifacts. Many buildings in Europe are
manifestations of culture and are built to last centuries. Old precious
material reminders of the past. In the Cook Islands – and in Manihiki – it is
the opposite. Culture is present, culture is lived and celebrated, culture is
oral, culture is told and shared. All generations come together to create a
moment of colourful, animated, ephemeral culture. A common goal of
beauty and pride where the eldest tell and show the youngest how to cut, dye,
weave, paint, sew, dance and sing.
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| One of the celebration Kai Kais in Tukao - a loooooong table at the Centre - fuuuuull of goodness! |
Cultural Day brought together three
schools: Tukao and Tauhunu schools from Manihiki were joined by Rakahanga
school, the neighbour island situated 50km north west of Manihiki. In true
Manihiki style, after two hours of sailing on small fishing boats, the people
of Rakahanga were welcomed with drumming, dancing & singing by the village
of Tukao. Of course, that welcome ceremony also included a big kai kai – an
oversized island buffet offering local and western dishes, from fresh lagoon
fish to corned beef with ‘uto’ pancakes (natural coconut marshmallow) and chocolate
cake. The 40 visitors were to spend their time between the two villages to
allow each community to host their special guests for a few days. Imagine that for
the festivities, with the arrival of 40 Rakahangans, Tukao’s population
increased by 50 % ! And it is the village who works together to feed all their
guests, which is a huge effort for such a small community of 80 inhabitants!
The community hall, also used as cyclone centre, was transformed into a huge
dormitory. Each meal was prepared by the village and eaten together at the centre, which was the perfect occasion for
the children to find new playmates at all times of day, and for family members
to reunite and catch up over the course of what ended up being 7 days instead
of 3. That’s what happens when transport is by sea and the weather turns!
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| The school and village of Tukao staked onto the barge to sail to Tauhunu for the opening of Cultural Day |
The school of Tauhunu, Apii Ruamanu, hosted this annual event whose theme was “Fai Kai O toku matameinanga”. The idea was to compare traditional food from back in the days with the food eaten
nowadays. The program of course included traditional dancing, singing and
drumming but also a friendly competition between the schools of coconut
husking, grating, squeezing and showcasing the different uses of this amazing seed.
Each school had prepared an impressive show with handmade costumes using
natural materials, mainly from the coconut tree and black oyster shells – characteristic of Manihiki. The students as
well as the three communities had been learning songs in the rhythm of the 'pate',
a hollowed-out drum made of local hard wood, all while the pupils practiced their traditional
Polynesian choreography.
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| Rakahanga school proudly representing their island with a beautiful hymn |
Apii Tukao had been working on their show most of
the lunch breaks and evenings for 3 weeks prior to the big day – all
orchestrated by the talented Bloss. The principal, teachers and most of the
parents were involved in costume making, mental and singing support. There had
been some long nights cutting, pulling, sewing nikau (coconut fronds) into
Polynesian skirts and head pieces – while singing on top of their lungs to memorize the new Fai Kai verses to traditional melodies.
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| Apii Tukao pupils, teachers and principal, ready to go on stage |
So much practicing that Yann was coming home singing Maori words and
showing us some Manihikian dance moves! Few months and 16,000km later, we could
still hear the melody of "titi tunupaka, aue te mone" and watch him
vigorously dance with passion. Such a rich experience for our little papa’a
boy! One night, about a week before the celebrations and while the village was
practicing twice a day, we were at home quietly getting ready for bed. Tim was
upstairs reading, Charlie was deeply asleep and I was in the (cold!) shower, as
Yann had said that he was going to sleep on the couch dowstairs. It was about 8.45pm when
I heard a bike come up to the house, a gentle knock on the door and a voice
calling out for one of us. I could barely make up what was happening so I asked
Tim to come down. Mama Jane, the Executive Officer of Tukao, was very concerned
as she had found Yann on the main road, about 300m from the house. She tried to
bring him home but he was determined to go somewhere, or wasn't comfortable
jumping on the bike with a "stranger". Tim stepped into the pitch-black
night to go look for our 2.5-year-old son. Yann was found happy in his
underwear (too hot to wear pyjamas!) – he had thought of putting on his shoes. When Tim
asked him where he was going, he joyfully replied: "Papa, I go school, I
go dance"!!! It melted our hearts to see how deeply involved
and moved he was by the music and rhythm of Manihiki. And this is the beauty of
the live culture of the Cook Islands. It transfers onto the newest generations,
just by watching, hearing, feeling.
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| Boys, Travel, Koteka, Willie, Pauro & Aporo proudly representing Apii Tukao |
A few weeks later, the Prime Minister of the Cook Islands Hon. Henry Puna
arrived on the island with his wife Akaiti to celebrate the Constitution with his people. Over the
course of 10 days, we appreciated once again the warm hospitality of the Manihikians
as well as the culture of their beautiful island. The Constitution opening
ceremony took place in Tauhunu where both villages had prepared new shows with
new songs and costumes, as well as themed floats. This time, the food consisted
of mainly umu kai - the traditional earth oven in which were cooked local pork,
fish and frigate birds. We were also treated to crayfish and the incredible
coconut crab. What a feast! The closing ceremony was hosted by Tukao, with as
much life and intensity. The few visitors, us included of course, were invited
to join the dancers and show our stiff hip movements to the delight of the
amused local crowd. Not my proudest Manihiki moment but still something to
remember – after all, who can say that they have danced (or tried to dance!) in
front of a Prime Minister??? Yann was definitely more impressive than I was.
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| The whole village of Tukao performing "at home" during the closing ceremony of the Constitution Celebration |
Before we left Manihiki, we made sure to load some local drumming on our
phones. We recorded most of the dances and singing during the celebrations, not
only to make sure that Yann wouldn't forget about the culture he was able to
live and experience, but also because we truly love it. Despite almost 5 years
in the Cook Islands, never have we experienced such passion and pride in living
one's own culture.
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| Yann, proudly wearing his Cultural Day Uniform | |
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| Charlie, also not sure why she has such a large flower on her head... Well, Maman thought it was cute!!! |
A lot of tourists in Rarotonga ask us if the island nights
are fake, set up just for tourists. Well, yes and no. In Manihiki and most
likely all the other outer islands, there are no tourists. This made it even
more touching and heart-warming to see everyone of all ages and genders embracing
their strong heritage and vibrant culture, spend hours and days creating, practicing
and enjoying. They keep their culture alive by living their culture for
themselves. In Rarotonga, the shows are set up for the tourists, but they are a
beautiful way to keep it alive by involving the younger generations.
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| Some of the Tukao village during the Constitution celebrations. In the front are Maria, Tokorima, Krystiana, Muriel, Xenia and Helina having a laugh (how I miss those faces...) |
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We will never forget with which enthusiasm, focus and passion our almost 3-years
old danced for himself to the sounds of the drums, in the bright sun of Tukao
and in front of the two villages of Manihiki. He lived this music through every
pore of his skin and nothing could disturb him from this moment, his moment. They
say that childhood memories don’t stick before the age of 4, but how could he
forget this. The culture he has watched, listened and lived.
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| Baby Charlie Moana, Helina, Mama Winnie, Courtney and I - sadly fare-welling Courtney on her journey back to Australia after 6 months on Manihiki |
MEITAKI KOREREKA Manihiki, it has been the most generous,
touching and rich experience. Your culture is alive, keep living it.
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| Courtney, it has been the most incredible cultural adventure we have shared together. Until we meet again! |
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